Update:
I took the car back to Mechanic B. He was quite certain the problem was a loose clamp, so he put some new clamps on for $50. It's been 24 hours and so far, so good. Flabdablet, I looked at the coolant tank afterwards and it did indeed have green ...
The design operating temperature for most engines is around 80°C (180°F) and that's what you should be getting with a new thermostat. Unfortunately, most dashboard temperature gauges are not calibrated, and any markings they do have are fairly me...
You should be watching your temp gauge while you're driving it before you get it fixed. If it starts to climb, stop and turn off the engine!
The temp gauge shouldn't necessarily be right at the middle. This is actually determined by your thermostat, and...
WOW, flabdablet, thank you so much for that very detailed explanation.
So if you notice that your heater is delivering lukewarm air instead of its usual toe-blistering goodness, and your engine temperature gauge is reading low, it's a fair bet that your...
Engine coolant is mostly water. A pump, usually driven by the fan belt, circulates it around the cooling system. It picks up heat as it runs through cooling channels in the engine block, then cools down again as it goes through the radiator.
The radiat...
$700 indeed seems like a lot for a heater core, but it's almost all labor, so it all depends on how hard it is to change. (I thought my Grand Am had a hard to reach heater core, but it was only $250.)
Just to add to the info, it's not uncommon for a heat...
It's possible that Mechanic B broke something when flushing the core, or maybe just didn't do a good job of reconnecting the hoses. You probably should go back to him and see if he guarantees his work.
I was going to say the same thing. See if you can r...
It's possible that Mechanic B broke something when flushing the core, or maybe just didn't do a good job of reconnecting the hoses. You probably should go back to him and see if he guarantees his work.
Thanks for the answers! Here's a follow-up question: if it's so hard to get to the heater core, then how was Mechanic B so easily able to clean it out?
This is a heater core. The coolant from your engine runs through it so it can radiate heat into the cabin of the car.
Replacement cost on these things varies wildly. On some cars the mechanic needs to take apart the AC during the process. Its a tough par...
I know nothing about cars, but anecdotally, my grandma has a 98 Camry and a few weeks ago she had to have the heater core replaced and it was $700. So if that is indeed the problem in your car that's probably not an unreasonable price. (The problem manife...
What will ruin your car is driving it without antifreeze. The heater core is used to heat the air that blows into the cabin when you turn the heat on. That heat comes from the engine, via antifreeze. Basically, a heater core is a little radiator with a...
Your heater core has probably sprung a leak. If it keeps leaking, your car won't have any coolant, and it will ruin things. The $700 may be justified; replacing the heater core may involve tearing apart the entire dashboard. It should be pretty straightfo...
Your heater core may have a leak (antifreeze leaking onto hot engine parts could cause the white smoke). If it does, it needs to be replaced. Pulling it out is most likely a pain to do, and so there's a lot of labor involved. The part itself probably isn'...
The mechanic said my heater core needs to be replaced and it will cost $700. What does this mean? Lengthy explanation inside. Background: I bought my 1995 Toyota Corrolla this last summer. Got it checked out by a reputable mechanic (Mechanic A) who found...
AllDataDIY gives you the same detailed automotive repair information used every day by 70,000 automotive repair shops.
Do Not Attempt a Heater Core Replacement Without Detailed Procedures for Guidance
When replacing your heater core, remember that heater core replacement procedures vary from vehicle to vehicle. Refer to the heater core replacement instructions for your specific vehicle and NEVER attempt to replace a heater core without following a heater core replacement procdure for your vehicle. Too many parts have to be disconnected or removed in order to access the heater core for you to attempt it without a step-by-step procedure.·A subscription to AllDataDIY is the smartest investment anyone can make.
Tools Needed for a Heater Core Replacement
The basic tools required for a typical heater core replacement include a straight-slot screwdriver, a set of open-end wrenches, a set of sockets and a pair of pliers.·This will also be a good time to replace the heater core hoses, hose clamps, thermostat and the radiator cap.
Find Out Why the Heater Core Failed Before You Install a New Core
After removing the failed heater core from the vehicle, find out why it failed:·Is it the original heater core?· Was it replaced before?· If so, how long ago?· If the heater core has been replaced within the last 6 months, you may be looking at a cooling system problem, not a heater core problem. ·
What is the condition of the coolant:· color? PH? any residue in the radiator fill neck?· The color should not be muddied or “rusty” in appearance.· The pH should be in the range of 7.7 – 11.0.· And the mix should be 50/50.
Test the heater core for leaks:· pin hole leaks in the core could be a sign of Electrolysis.· This condition is usually a result of add on equipment – stereo amplifiers, alarm systems, plow lifts, etc. that have not been properly grounded to the vehicle.· You can test for this by using a DC voltmeter to submerge the positive lead into the radiator fill neck and ground the negative lead at the battery.· This should be done with the radiator cap off and the engine running.· You should not read any more than 0.1 volt.· Any higher reading is cause for alarm and the offending component must be found and grounded properly.· Stray excessive electrical current can destroy an aluminum heat exchanger in a very short time.
Once you have determined that the system is OK, it is strongly recommended that you flush the cooling system thoroughly and aggressively before you install the new heater core.· Multiple flushings are not out of the question to assure proper system chemical balance, especially if you suspect poor coolant condition was the root cause of the previous failure.· A flush machine is preferred, but flush aggressively to the best of your ability.
Carefully re-install the heater core following the removal and additional steps listed above.· Caution!!· Heater pipes that are long can create destructive forces to the connection joint at the tank, if excessive force is applied to these pipes during the installation process.· Be careful when inserting the heater core into the mounting housing to avoid over stressing the connection joints.
Fill the system with a new 50/50 solution of the proper coolant and deionized or distilled water as recommended by vehicle manufacturer.· Coolant pre-mixes may also be used.· Be sure to replace your coolant with the same kind that was removed (refer to your owner’s manual to identify the coolant used in your vehicle).· Tap water is lethal to aluminum components in a cooling system.· Replace the pressure cap.
Start engine to check for leaks.· After the engine has idled long enough to open the thermostat (engine should reach it’s normal operating temperature), turn the engine off.· Make sure the cooling system has cooled down before slowly removing the pressure cap to check the coolant level:· add the 50/50 mix or pre-mix as needed to bring the coolant level to the bottom of the fill neck or to the appropriate level in the overflow tank.· Replace the pressure cap.
Check the coolant recovery reservoir the next few times you drive the vehicle, and, if necessary, add enough coolant mix to bring it up to the proper level.
Manufacturer Technical Service Bulletins·
Some manufacturers have issued Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) to address the cause and recommended remedies for heater core failures. A single TSB may cover a wide range of models and years. For example, Ford Motor Company issued TSB 06-21-19 to address electrolysis-related premature heater core failure in over 200 Ford, Mercury and Lincoln models.
Bypassing Your Heater Core
This tip will render your heater completely inoperative because it bypasses the heater core. So, make sure you can live without a heater for a while before you undertake this procedure. On the other hand, if your heater core is leaking, you probably aren't able to use the heater because of the mist that forms on the windows during cold weather. Besides, you should not be breathing the mist that forms when your heater core is leaking because it is toxic. The best bet is simply to park your vehicle and not drive it until you replace the heater core. But if that's not an option, then you will find this tip very helpful.....
To stop your heater core from leaking so that you can drive the vehicle until you can replace the heater core, simply drain a couple gallons of coolant from the radiator, remove both heater hoses from the heater core pipes, and connect the ends of the heater hoses together. This allows the coolant to flow normally without passing through the heater core. You can get an inexpensive cooling system flush kit at the local Walmart or auto parts store that will have have an adapter that will connect your heater hoses.
Simply install the adapter to join the hoses together, replace the coolant that you drained and check for leaks. As seen here, the garden hose fitting makes a great way to top off the cooling system to reduce or eliminate air blocks that sometimes develop when filling through the overflow tank.
Heater Core Replacement
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