Heater Core Replacement Procedures

1991 - 1996 Ford Escort
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1995_Ford_Escort_2nd_Generation.jpg

Procedure Source:  Mechanical Database  http://mechdb.com/index.php/Ford_Escort_2nd_gen_heater_core_replacement

Tools Needed

  • A good set of metric sockets with 1/4 in & 3/8 in drive ratchets.
  • A set of metric box end wrenches.
  • Vice grips & pliers.
  • Drain pan to catch the coolant.
  • A set of ramps or jack and jack stands.
  • Phillips & flat head screwdrivers.
  • Torx bits, either for a screwdriver or ratchet.


Heater Cores

We checked several auto parts stores to determine which offers the best deal on your new heater core and accessories. At the time of this posting, AutoZone generally offers the lowest price on heater cores and most of their products come with a lifetime warranty. Remember that you can buy your heater core online and have it shipped directly to your door, or you can simply pay for it online and pick it up at your local AutoZone. It saves a lot of time at the store, as your entire order should be waiting for you when you arrive at the store. We have discovered a couple of nice AutoZone promotions that will make it an even better deal if you decide to order your heater core and other parts online...

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Procedure

  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
  2. Pry off the bezel around the HVAC controls.
  3. Remove the screws on either side of the center console trim that holds the HVAC controls and the radio.
  4. Remove the screws on the center console that surrounds the shifter.
  5. Removing the seats may provide more room to work with, and is easily done with 4 bolts beneath each seat. This is an optional step.
  6. Unscrew the shifter knob and take that trim piece out (if the vehicle is a manual).
  7. Remove the screws that secure the HVAC controls.
  8. Pull out the ash tray and remove the screw directly behind where the tray sits in the console.
  9. Remove the radio if possible. A special tool helps with this. This step isnt' required but helps with accessing other parts.
  10. Pull off the kick guards down underneath the dash on either side of the center console.
  11. On either side of the heater unit there are white plastic cams with cables attached to them. These cams operate the paddles within the unit to adjust where air gets vented to, dash, floor, defrost, etc. Remove the ends of the cables from these cams. These cables are tied directly to the HVAC controls.
  12. Pull the HVAC control unit out until you can unhook the wire connectors in the back. Once you get those loose pull it all the way out.
  13. If the radio is still in you can now get to the connectors in the back of it. Unhook those and take that out too.
  14. Disconnect the connectors for the cigarette lighter.
  15. Remove the console.
  16. Remove the trim piece to the right of the glove box.
  17. Take out the passenger dash vent.
  18. Take off the glove box.
  19. Unhook the hood release lever from the trim. It is secured by a nut hidden on the backside.
  20. Take off the trim piece below the steering wheel.
  21. This is optional, but you can remove the airbag for safety since you'll be working with the steering column.
    1. Pop off the little round caps on either side of the steering wheel.
    2. Remove the bolts under those caps.
    3. Unhook the electrical connectors.
    4. Remove the airbag.
    5. Be very careful with it and sit it somewhere out of the way and pointing up. It can open and cause serious injury while being handled or if dropped.
  22. Remove the trim on the steering column, top and bottom. 3 screws are on the bottom piece and clamshell around the steering column.
  23. Unhook the little ignition light by twisting it and pulling it out.
  24. Take out the bolts holding the steering column to the dash.
  25. Lower the steering column.
  26. Remove the instrument bezel.
  27. Go under the car and unhook the speedometer cable from the top of the transmission. This will create slack to pull the instrument cluster out.
  28. Remove the instrument cluster and unhook all the cables in the back.
  29. Pry off the triangular sail panels on either end of the dash.
  30. Remove the L shaped HVAC tubes on either side of the heater unit. These are right behind the radio and HVAC controls on either side of the heater unit like bull's horns.
  31. Take off the long black trim piece right at the edge of the window on top of the dash. There is one screw in the center.
  32. Pry out the trim piece up and remove it.
  33. The dashboard is held in by 11 bolts that have to be removed.
    • 3 of them are along the edge of the windshield that were under the vent trim piece you just removed. Remove the ones on the end with a box wrench. The middle one should have enough room to put a socket on it, but if not then use a box wrench.
    • 4 are under the triangular sail panels on the ends of the dashboard, 2 on each side.
    • 4 at the base of the center console bolting the dash to the floor, 2 on each side.
  34. Pull the dash free far enough to unhook all the cables and then pull it out.
  35. Remove the heater core unit.
  36. Remove the cover from the inlet and outlet of the heater core enclosure.
  37. Pull out the old heater core being careful not to destroy any padding that may be around it. Reusing the padding may be required if new padding was not supplied with the replacement. Do not use a hard insulator around the heater core or you may damage the new one putting it in.
  38. Install the new heater core.
  39. Install the heater unit back in place, being careful not to hit the heater core tubes as they are slide through the firewall.
  40. Install the dash back in place and reconnect all the cables and wires. Make sure your HVAC tubes get aligned correctly and that you aren't pinching any wires before bolting it back in.
  41. Bolt in the dash.
  42. Install the trim along the window. It's fine to leave out the difficult screw when putting it back on.
  43. Install all the trim pieces in reverse order of how they were taken removed. Be careful to hook all your wires back up to the HVAC controls, radio, guages, light dimmer, etc. Do not forget to reinstall the hood release.
    • When reattaching the HVAC cables to the cams on the heater unit pay attention to where the cams are relative to the position of the control levers. Some readjustment may be necessary, but it's fairly easy to figure out where it goes and how it works.
  44. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
  45. Lower the vehicle back to the ground.
  46. Place the drain pan under the coolant hoses on the back side of the engine.
  47. The heater core should have had a cap on one tube, leave this on. Unhook the bypass hose and attach it to the uncapped heater core tube. Tighten the hose clamp.
  48. Run another hose from the engine to the other heater core tube. Tighten the hose clamps. It helps to put the hose clamps on the hose before attaching it to the tubes in both cases.
  49. The factory clamps are one piece shoot metal rings. Compress the tabs with a pair of vice grips to loosen these, then release them where you want them over the tube ends.
  50. Top off the radiator with more coolant, not the overflow tank.
  51. Start the vehicle and make sure everything works as intended, that there are no coolant leaks, that the car can stay in the proper operating temperature without overheating, and that the heater works.

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